April 12, 2004
Off the river, for now

Ten great days on the Usumacinta, studying the ancient mooring stones of the Maya. Wonderful, in spite of getting robbed in the middle of the night by gun and machete toting bandits. We camped on a beach that was fine last year, not this year. There is apparently an organized group that preys on the illegal immigrants passing through, fires shots at passing authorities and is now targeting tourists.

Note to future rafters and travelers - stay off of the beach on the Mexican side at a spot known as Anaite, just below the "Tower" guard post on the Guatemalan shore, a few hours below Yaxchilan. The beach is on a sharp right turn in the river, above Chicozapote rapids.

Beyond that we had no problems, no one was hurt, and we counted our blessings. We also got to know the Sierra del Lacandon guards and staff (the Defensores) and have nothing but praise for them and gratitude for their help. Many thanks to Rudi Del Cid, who supervises the Porvenir station below Piedras Negras, and to Javier Marquez, director of the park.

Best and safest current Usu trip - ask Willy Fonseca, at km 61 on the highway to Frontera Corozal, to take you to Piedras Negras and Busilha Falls by lancha. He puts in far below our trouble spot, and both sites are spectacular.

The Usu lives - still a frontier, still a cultural and natural treasure, still wild on many fronts. We will continue to work to preserve it.

Posted by Dave at April 12, 2004 02:10 PM