American Rhetoric: John F. Kennedy -- 1960 Democratic National Convention Address
Close to us in the Adirondacks, our first trailer jam, and intro to Colin Hyde, our new Airstream guru.
In Plattsburgh, New York, an hour or so from my Airstream's current resting place, the guy who may turn it into a shiny space age retro podcasting studio.
He does need to update his website, though.
Here's a happy customer's blog showing Colin's work.
I like Google Earth more, but as long as I'm pointing to code someone else might use...
Google Code FAQ - Creating a User-Contributed Map with PHP and Google Spreadsheets
A high resolution section of Google Earth misses the ruins of Palenque, ending just past the museum and visitor center. Here's a KMZ file of the museum location.
Palenque Museum.kmz - Download
I should know by now I am no coder, but this explains it so well that it is tempting. And we do owe Google Earth Outreach some good KML.
Google Code FAQ - Using PHP and MySQL to create KML
European tourists far outnumber Americans in San Cristóbal de las Casas, Chiapas, Mexico. But that could be changing. This Times article will make more folks consider taking the trouble to visit SCLC, what we call the Lower East Side of Mexico. Nos vemos!
The New York Times > Travel > San Cristóbal Is Emerging From the Mist
Does this mean we get a Ukrainian restaurant in San Cristobal?
El Universal Online - Promocionarán Rusia y Ucrania turismo en Chiapas
Bizarre all right. The story also refers to Rancho Esmeralda without mentioning names.
Three Americans Jailed in Bizarre Mexican Land Dispute (washingtonpost.com)
In the latest from Ocosingo, the Zapatista community which invaded Rancho Esmeralda last winter is now claiming the archaeological zone of Tonina nearby. If they aren't given 50% of the income from the site, they will take it over. Where are the "good government committees" on this one?
OCOSINGO
Zapatistas prevén
administrar parte
de la arqueología
Juan Sánchez CP. Por considerar que la zona arqueológica de Toniná, ubicada a
escasos 11 kilómetros de la ciudad de Ocosingo, se encuentra dentro de lo que los zapatistas consideran su Municipio Autónomo 1º de Enero, podría ser tomada en los próximos días, según trascendió.
De acuerdo con los datos obtenidos, el domingo pasado fueron citados los responsables de esa zona arqueológica, para sostener una reunión con las bases del EZLN de la comunidad Jerusalén, en donde fijaron su postura y al mismo tiempo dieron a conocer de sus intenciones de administrar el 50 por ciento de los recursos que ingresan a Toniná.
En caso de que el Gobierno Federal se oponga a la decisión de los indígenas, lo más probable es que tomen por asalto el predio que alberga a la zona arqueológica y sean ellos (los zapatistas), quienes administren el 100% de los ingresos a ese centro turístico.
Los administradores de la zona arqueológica tienen un plazo de 15 días para hacer efectiva la disposición de las bases, porque de lo contrario serán las comunidades las que tomen la decisión.
From the Associated Press, via SFGate.com, a report on a new plan to deal with the Zapatistas. Again, too late to help Rancho Esmeralda. And how will the rebels react to this?
State government in southern Mexico outlines plan to deal with Zapatista rebels
The changes underway in the Zapatista "autonomous municipalities" come too late to help Rancho Esmeralda, which was expropriated by a neighboring rebel community last winter. At that time, higher rebel authorities claimed no jurisdiction over the invading group. And the state declined to intervene. Keeping the rebels quiet and happy seems to be the policy these days.
CNN.com - Governor: New rebel committees legal - Aug. 1, 2003
I have tried to stay out of this debate. But I post Chiapas news on the web. I traveled on the Zapatista caravan from La Realidad to Mexico City in 2001, and produced one of the few television reports that actually made it to American viewers at the time. And I was appalled this spring at the invasion of Rancho Esmeralda by neighboring Zapatistas, and the justifications put forward for it.
Polemics among leftists are an old, old story. I call it the do-gooders versus the do-betters. And this particular academic debate is 3 years old.
But the debate surrounding online activism and real versus virtual social change is even more compelling today.
"...as internet users we enter discussion groups and chat rooms with "compañeros" with whom we will never really need to work out our differences as we once had to do in political groups. We are no longer required to encounter each other, nor to work to persuade others of our position. We can just log off when we tire of the terms of debate on a particular list. The anonymity that is provided to us in this form of political participation, the potential for instant withdrawal from the group, the small degree of effort that is required to express solidarity through these means constitute both the attraction and the limitation of internet activism."
Judith Adler Hellman's critique of electronic rebellion appeared in the 2000 issue of the Socialist Register:
Real and Virtual Chiapas: Magic Realism and the Left
Here's one critique of the critique, from Harry Cleaver:
Virtual & Real Chiapas Support Networks
Hellman's response to Cleaver is at the end of this page:
Justin Paulson responded to Hellman in the 2001 Socialist Register;
Peasant Struggles and International Solidarity: the case of Chiapas
And Hellman answered:
There it is for those who are interested. Now I'll go back to social change in my own neighborhood, for the time being. And keeping an eye on the Usumacinta River in Chiapas.
Finally, a good article in the local Mexican press about the Rancho Esmeralda invasion.
Cuarto Poder: Despojo, sin solución aún
Glen and Ellen have refused to leave Ocosingo. It's their home. And they have reopened in a lovely small hotel and restaurant in town, just off the zocalo.
On my last drive up to San Cristobal from Palenque last month, seven of us dropped in unannounced for lunch in the new place. Ellen was at their home in town, but Glen and the staff were there, happy to see us, and they served up a great lunch even though they had not yet officially opened.
Congratulations to Glen and Ellen, and continued admiration for their strength and perseverance.
Tim Weiner had a travel story on Palenque, Panchan, and other spots nearby, in this past Sunday's Times. Registration required, free to read this week, $ if pulled from the archives.
La Jornada Virtu@l - Ocupan zapatistas rancho de estadunidenses en Ocosingo
Rebel supporters seize US-owned ranch in Mexico - JAMAICAOBSERVER.COM
The seizure occurred a few hours before President Vicente Fox arrived in Chiapas to inaugurate a programme called the, "National Crusade for Legal Security in the Countryside"."He picked a bad day," Jones said.
Reuters AlertNet - Pro-Zapatistas overrun U.S.-owned ranch in Mexico
"Since 1994, pro-Zapatista peasants have invaded hundreds of ranches around Ocosingo, the nearest town to Rancho Esmeralda and 300 miles (480 km) south of Mexico City.
The government has let them keep the bulk of the property in an attempt at land redistribution."
Tim Weiner has a short notice in the New York Times about the invasion yesterday of Rancho Esmeralda.
Today, after a long standoff, threats and violence against the owners and staff, Rancho Esmeralda was invaded by members of the neighboring Zapatista community. Here is the press release in English. The Spanish version is below (click MORE).
Words can't express the sadness we feel for Glenn and Ellen, for Ocosingo, for Chiapas, and for the Zapatista movement, which has betrayed its principles by this action. Soon comes the twisting of the facts and the spin based on ideologies. For now, only grief for the lost ideals on all sides.
In English:
PRESS RELEASE
RANCHO ESMERALDA
Ocosingo, Chiapas
Tel. 91967 08960 or 08922
February 28, 2003
Today, Friday, the 28th of February the American-owned ecoturistic hotel, Rancho Esmeralda, in Ocosingo, Chiapas, Mexico was invaded and taken by the Zapatista neighbors of Nuevo Jerusalen and the Autonomous Municipality "Primero de Enero". At 7AM about 100 men, armed with machetes began to gather at the ranch entrance. The two employees who were on the ranch, Vicente Sanchez Lopez and Ruben Cruz Kanter, contacted the owners warned them that an invasion appeared imminent. The owners immediately informed the authorities including the offices of Public Security, the Gobernacion Delegate in Ocosingo, the state Secretary of Government and the office of the Governor.
At about 8:30 the police arrived at the entrance to the Tonina ruins where the walking path that accesses Rancho Esmeralda begins. But they could not enter the ranch without an order from the state Secretary of Government, Emilio Zebadua, who was not available. Representatives from the Gobernacion Delegation and the Secretary of Pueblos Indigenous also arrived but were unable to enter the ranch which was by now surrounded by Zapatistas.
The owners of Rancho Esmeralda informed both local and state authorities of the threat of invasion for the first time on the 13th of December, 2002 after they had been called to a meeting by the community Nuevo Jerusalen. At this meeting the owners were informed that road access to the tourism center was closed to all guests, visitors and suppliers of Rancho Esmeralda. The Zapatistas also demanded the title to the ranch. In the two and a half months since the owners have been struggling to find a peaceful solution to this problem in the face of further threats and harassment. On January 29th the Zapatistas closed the road to Rancho Esmeralda totally and put a lock on the illegal gate they had installed on the Carretera San Juanito, the public road of 36 years that accesses Rancho Esmeralda.
That evening when the owner, Glen Wersch, returned from town he was attacked by a mob of Zapatistas hurling rocks and trying to stop his vehicle and grab him. The next day an employee of the ranch, Ernesto Cruz Kanter, was kidnapped by the Zapatistas, held hostage for six hours, beaten and released with a written note directed to the owner that said, "we are not playing games, we don't want you here, if you don't understand next time it will be worse". With these acts of violence and threats of more the ranch was completely closed to tourism. On the 29th of January Ellen Jones, the wife of Glen Wersch and co-owner of Rancho Esmeralda, filed charges against Nuevo Jerusalen for the kidnapping of Ernesto Cruz and for threats of invasion.
The owners and employees of Rancho Esmeralda have maintained possession of the ranch throughout the month of February until today when the Zapatistas invaded and took the ranch. The employees were under instruction not to resist in the event that an invasion should take place. The Zapatistas demanded the keys to the buildings and the employees delivered the keys that they had in their possession to the invaders. The Zapatistas inspected each building, together with the two employees, and filmed every building with a video camera. Finally, the two employees were allowed to leave the ranch with their personal belongings but none of the things that remained belonging to the ranch.
The Mexican authorities have been fully informed of the threatened invasion of Rancho Esmeralda for over two months. Criminal charges of kidnapping and threats of invasion had been filed for a full month. There has been ample opportunity to avoid the invasion of the tourist guest ranch but the state government chose to do nothing. In fact, just 10 days ago, at a meeting in his office in the state capital, Tuxtla Gutierrez, the state Secretary of Government, Emilio Zebadua, told the owners of Rancho Esmeralda clearly that the state of Chiapas would definitely not take any action to remove the illegal gate on the San Juanito road or send in any police to protect the ranch.
The owners, Glen Wersch and Ellen Jones remain in Ocosingo struggling to find a solution to this crisis. Today they filed charges against the community for invasion of the ranch. "We were forced from our home, our tourism business has been ruined and now our ranch has been taken", said Ellen Jones, "This has been a robbery in plain daylight with threats in writing for two months". This did not have to happen. We will seek justice."
En Espanol:
Rancho Esmeralda
Ocosingo, Chiapas
telefono celular 91967 08960 o 08922
Declaracion a la Prensa
28 de Febrero 2003
Hoy, Viernes, 28 de Febrero el centro turístico, Rancho Esmeralda, fue tomado por sus vecinos Zapatistas, los de la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalen y el Municipio Autonomo "Primero de Enero". A las 7 de la manana empezaron a juntarses unos 100 hombres con machetes en la entrada del Rancho Esmeralda. Los dos empleados, Vicente Sanchez Lopez y Ruben Cruz Kanter, quienes estaban en el rancho avisaron los duenos por telefono celular y de una vez las autoridades fueron avisados, incluyendo la oficina de Seguridad Publica, el Delegado de Gobernacion en Ocosingo, El Secretario de Gobierno, y la oficina del Gobernador del Estado. A las 8:30 de la manana llegaron elementos de la Seguridad Publica a las ruinas de Tonina pero no pudieron entrar al Rancho Esmeralda por falta de un orden del Secretario de Gobierno, Emilio Zebadua, quien se encontro no disponible. Despues llegaron representantes de la S.E.P.I. Y del Delegado de Gobierno en Ocosingo pero no entraron al Rancho Esmeralda ya como el rancho estaba rodeado por Zapatistas.
Los duenos de Rancho Esmeralda avisaron a las autoridades de la amenaza de invasion por primera vez el 13 de Diciembre despues de que ellos estuvieron citados a una reunion por la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalen en donde les avisaron del cierre del acceso por carretera a todos los clientes, visitantes y proveedores de Rancho Esmeralda y les exigieron la escritura del rancho. Paso un mes y media de hostigamientos y amenazas por parte de los Zapatistas mientras los duenos buscaron una solucion pacifica. El 29 de Enero los vecinos cerraron el paso total para los del Rancho Esmeralda y pusieron un candado puesto en el porton ilegal que impidio paso en la via publica, la Carretara San Juanito.
Regresando al rancho el dueno, Glen Wersch, fue atacado con piedras por un grupo de los Zapatistas con la intencion de detenerlo y agarrarle. El 30 de Enero un empleado, Ernesto Cruz Kanter, fue secuestrado y golpeado por los Zapatistas y le soltaron con una nota escrita dirijido al dueno del Rancho Esmeralda que dijo "no se juega, no te queremos aqui, proxima vez se iba mas peor si no se entiende". Con estos actos de violencia y amenazas de mas se cerro el centro turistico Rancho Esmeralda a todo turismo. El 29 de Enero Ellen Jones, la esposa de Glen Wersch, levanto una acta de denuncia en contra de la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalen por el secuestro de Ernesto Cruz Kanter y las amenazas de invasion del rancho.
Entre los duenos y el personal del Rancho se han mantenido posession del rancho ya por todo el mes de Febrero; hasta hoy en la manana cuando los Zapatistas entraron. De los dos empleados los Zapatistas exigieron las llaves de los edificios y los empleados se les entregaron. Los Zapatistas revisaron cada edificio grabando todo que se encontro con camera de video. Al fin de cuentas dejaron salir los dos empleados con sus cosas personales pero nada que pertenece al rancho.
Las autoridades tuvieron conocimiento de la amenaza de invasion del Rancho Esmeralda por mas de dos meses. La denuncia en contra de la comunidad por secuestro y por amenaza de invasion tiene un mes. Habia oportunidad amplia para evitar la toma de este centro turistico pero el gobierno no hizo nada. Al contrario hace 10 dias en una reunion en su oficina en Tuxtla Gutierrez el 19 de Febrero el Secretario de Gobierno del Estado de Chiapas, Emilio Zebadua, dijo claro a los duenos del Rancho Esmeralda que el estado no iba a quitar el porton ilegal ni meter policia para proteger el rancho.
Los duenos, Glen Wersch y Ellen Jones, permanecen en Ocosingo buscando una solucion justa de este conflicto. Hoy mismo estan haciendo una denuncia en contra de Nuevo Jerusalen por la toma del Rancho Esmeralda. "Tuvimos que salir a la fuerza de nuestro hogar, nuestro negocio de ecoturismo esta destruido, y ahora tomaron el rancho", dijo Ellen Jones, "Ha pasado un robo en pleno sol con aviso escrito en adelante por dos meses. No tenia que pasar todo esto. Buscamos justicia.
Here is a link to a first-person account of the recent Jatate kayaking incident in which kayakers were pulled off the river and detained.
It's like a ghost town now - empty but intact. They haven't yet destroyed the ranch, just the dream. From Reuters:
Chiapas Indians Destroy Ranch Dream of U.S. Couple
Gerry Hadden of NPR was in Ocosingo with Glen and Ellen the day before I got there. Here's his report.
Janet Schwartz has sent in a story about invasion of another tourist center, this time one that is Mexican-owned, by Lacandones. Full story is below (click MORE).
I'm curious how this fits into the neat worldview of those who have commented that Glen and Ellen had it coming.
JANET SCHWARTZ PARNES
El domingo pasado se presentó un grupo de personas habitantes de Nueva Palestina,
Frontera Corozal y Lacanja, al terreno que tiene el tour operador, Gerver
Castellanos, en el poblado Paraiso de la colonia agricola Nuevo Guerrero, el cual
posea hace apenas un año, con escrituras registradas en el registro Publico de la
Propiedad de Ocosingo, terreno que compró a pequeños propietarios que tienen la
documentacion base desde el año de 1951, registrada en el 82 en el registro de
Ocosingo como pequeña propiedad. Ademas del proyecto turistico, ahi
estableceria las reproducciones de estelas mayas con datos de investigacion
arqueologica acerca de la cuenca del Usumacinta y un proyecto de siembra de 15
especies forestales.
Esto es lo que constituye lo que él llama "centro de interpretacion de la selva"
incluyendo un museo al aire libre acerca de las monterias, chiclerias y shaterias.
De acuerdo a ¨Herbert¨, ¨Pues bien, los lideres comunales, bajo el pretexto que todo
el terreno es de ellos, invadieron mis cuatro hectareas y acabaron con todo,
llevandose inclusive un vehiculo y a las personas que cuidaban las instalaciones.
¨Hoy hable por telefono con ellos a un telefono satelital y despues de escuchar sus
explicaciones me advirtieron que si llegaba por alla, me iban a amarrar¨, manifestó
Castellanos en un mensaje enviado por correo electronico.
Además Castellanos informa que ya presentó una denuncia ante el ministerio publico
el lunes por los delitos de despojo, robo, privacion ilegal de la libertad y los que
resulten en contra de las autoridades de estos poblados.
En tanto dijo: ¨Lo que me preocupa mas es la condicion de mis trabajadores que hasta
la noche del lunes al parecer no habian sido liberados. (he tenido llamadas de los
vecinos informandome, de la invasion, de la destruccion de las instalaciones, pero
hasta ahora no me dan informes de la gente que trabaja conmigo alli)¨
En efecto, se pregunta si realmente vale la pena hacer cualquier tipo de inversion
en Chiapas y si es cierto de que en Chiapas no existen las invasiones. ¨Si mi
terreno fuera un latifundio, pero en verdad ni extranjero soy para que eso sea un
pretexto¨, concluyó.
A continuación sigue una copia de la carta que le envió al secretario particular del
Secretario de Gobierno, Emilio Zebadua.
*****
San Cristóbal de Las Casas, 10 Feb 2003-02-10
Lic. Jorge Marquez
Secretaría de Gobierno de Chiapas.- Vía Fax 6126663.-
Apreciable Licenciado,
Como le comente telefónicamente, el día de ayer Domingo, un grupo de la comunidad
Lacandona incluyendo personas de Frontera Corozal, Lacanja Chansayab y Nueva
Palestina tomaron un pequeño terreno de 4 hectáreas ubicado en el kilómetro 96.8 de
la carretera Fronteriza del Sur. Desde hace muchos años me he dedicado a
actividades de turismo y a la investigación de aspectos culturales e históricos de
nuestra entidad. Aquí en esta ciudad de San Cristóbal desarrollé un espacio
cultural dedicado al trabajo de todos los pueblos prehispánicos en la piedra Jade,
incluyendo una replica a tamaño natural de la tumba del Gobernante Pakal de
Palenque. He tenido el gusto de mostrarles este trabajo que ahora constituye
parte del acervo cultural y turístico de esta ciudad a varios amigos que se
desenvuelven en diferentes áreas de nuestro gobierno estatal.
El terreno que mencióno, esta ubicado en el poblado El Paraíso que a la vez
pertenece a la zona conocida como colonia Agrícola Nuevo Guerrero. Es mí propósito
crear ahí, un "centro de interpretación de la selva" con información acerca de todos
los sitios arqueológicos a lo largo de la cuenca del Usumacinta, a la vez que tocar
temas como las monterías, las chiclerias y las shaterias -de la palma shate- que han
sido movimiento socio económicos en la historia reciente de la selva. También hemos
estado trabajando en la investigación del ambiente forestal, sembrando mas de mil
arbolitos de diferentes especies en la zona y creando un vivero con semilleros de
15 especies. En el tiempo que tenemos de estar trabajando en la zona, hemos
contratado varias personas de las comunidades aledañas, inclusive de Nueva
Palestina, para hacer todos los trabajos que ahí realizamos, inclusive el hacer
cuatro ranchones para tener espacios habitables, así como una planta modelo de
tratamiento ecológico de aguas residuales.
Nunca antes mis vecinos Lacandones, Tzeltales y Choles, se habían preocupado por
este pequeño terreno, hasta ahora que lo ven con cierta infraestructura.
El terreno lo adquirí al señor Domingo Gutierrez Miranda, quien ha vivido con su
padre por mas de 40 años en la zona y es pequeño propietario. La escritura que
hicimos hace apenas un año, después de 7 de estar yo por ahí, se desprende de otra
que ampara 20 hectáreas y que data del año 1982, la que a la vez se desprende de
otra originada en el año de 1951, todos estos pasos debidamente registrados en el
registro Publico de la Propiedad en Ocosingo Chiapas.-
Las personas que han tomado posesión ilegal de mi terreno -y que han acabado con
todo, llevandose pisos, techos, baños- argumentan que este terreno les pertenece
por mandato presidencial al igual que los otros terrenos de Nuevo Guerrero que
incluyen los poblados Nuevo México, Nuevo Petalcingo, 20 de Noviembre, El Paraíso y
el propio Nuevo Guerrero, así como terrenos de los ejidos Francisco Leon, Lacanja
Tzeltal, El Limonar, Nuevo Tumbala, Nuevo Tila y otros.- Tambien se llevaron un
vehiculo de mi propiedad, -camion de tres toneladas con redilas-.
Me preocupa el estado de las personas que trabajan para mí y que han sido retenidos,
de los cuales hasta esta hora de hoy, 07.40 PM, no he tenido noticias. Acompaño
copia de la Averiguación Previa que inicie hoy en esta ciudad, donde quedaron
anotados algunos pormenores de esta situación, agradeciéndole que le informe al Sr.
Secretario Emilio Zebadua, para que se ordene lo que proceda.-
Reiterandole mi agradeciemiento por sus atenciones;
Gerver Adolfo Castellanos Ramírez
Av. 16 de Septiembre No. 16
San Cristóbal de Las Casas, Chiapas.-
Tel. 967 82550 67 82557 casa 67 87247
c.c.p. Lic. Guillermo Sauza Brindis
I'm sure he means well.
The Zapatistas Break Their Silence
From Tom Hayden:
"The Zapatistas were allegedly planning to seize the charming resort. It could have been quite an international drama, but it turned out that the Zapatistas were only opposed to expanding the resort."
Tom should try talking to Glen and Ellen before writing about it.
reforma.com --- editorialistas - Rancho Esmeralda
reforma.com --- editorialistas - Territorio sin ley
reforma.com --- Denuncian vecinos abusos de zapatistas
This is the story we heard about yesterday when we were with Glen and Ellen. Gave them some hope that the latest story was still coming out.
Threats Force Americans To Flee Ranch in Mexico (washingtonpost.com)
I was just in Ocosingo yesterday visiting Glen and Ellen and helping them shift around their belongings, which have been moved off of the ranch. We went in with them the night before to check with employees who are still staying there overnight. Glen had just had the first day of meetings with Secretary of Tourism Zebadua. No resolution but talks will continue.
So this AP article is a little out of date already, but I'll post it for the record. (Click MORE)
Mexico May Buy Threatened Ranch
By THE ASSOCIATED PRESS
Filed at 4:16 p.m. ET
MEXICO CITY (AP) -- A U.S. couple whose ranch is
blockaded by Zapatista rebels said Wednesday the
government of Chiapas state is considering buying
their property to resolve the conflict.
The owners, from Boise, Idaho, were called to a
meeting with authorities Wednesday, a day after U.S.
Embassy officials urged them to temporarily leave
their ranch and guest house for their own safety.
Advertisement
``They called me last night and asked me, 'Are you
willing to sell your land?''' ranch co-owner Glen
Wersch said by telephone as he waited for officials to
arrive for the negotiations in Ocosingo, four miles
west of Rancho Esmeralda.
``I don't have any choice, so yes, I'm willing to
sell,'' Wersch said.
Wersch said his wife, Ellen Jones, was still at the
ranch and the couple would not leave the property
permanently until they were offered a market-value
price for their land, guest house, coffee and
macadamia groves.
Wersch said U.S. Embassy officials had contacted him
to ``strongly urge I get off there (the property) for
my own safety.'' U.S. officials have been pressing the
Chiapas state government to protect the Americans'
rights.
But Chiapas officials accused the United States of
exaggerating the conflict, in which Zapatista
supporters from the neighboring village of Nuevo
Jerusalem have prevented tourists, owners and staff
from entering the property and threatened to seize it.
The rebels also allegedly detained and beat a ranch
employee and threatened others.
On Monday, Chiapas Gov. Pablo Salazar blamed the
Americans for starting the conflict. Salazar said one
of the ranch's guests was wearing a camouflage
uniform, which scared the rebels, who have accused
visitors of being spies for the army.
The Mexican army and the rebels were in a tense
standoff in the year following the Zapatistas' brief
uprising in 1994, but the two sides have been under a
truce for the last eight years.
The rebels acknowledged Tuesday their goal is to force
the Americans off the land, and then allow a rebel
council to decide what to do with the property.
Rancho Esmeralda offered environmental walks to a
nearby Maya ruin site and guests stayed at rustic
cabins where they could see coffee and exotic flowers
grown and harvested.
The rebels oppose tourism, and their political actions
have become increasingly focused on seizing land from
neighboring villages and ranches.
Wersch declined to name a price for the 26-acre
property, but noted it had been listed for sale two
years ago at about $550,000.
Asked if he would ever consider buying land in Chiapas
again, Wersch said ``I would say yes.''
``I have good friends here, I love this place,'' he
said. ``These people (the rebels) are not
representative of the whole community.''
reforma.com --- Busca Chiapas retener rancho turístico
Below, the text of an AP wire story on the Rancho Esmeralda crisis. (Click More)
ALEJANDRO RUIZ, Associated Press Writer Tuesday, February 4, 2003
From the New York Times:
World Briefing: Americas
MEXICO: AMERICANS CLOSING GUEST RANCH The American owners of a popular
guest ranch in the southern state of Chiapas said they were closing it to
tourists because of violent intimidation by Zapatista members of a
neighboring community. The owners, Ellen Jones, 55, and Glen Wersch, 49,
are former Peace Corps workers who have operated their Rancho Esmeralda for
eight years. They said that staff members had been assaulted and were the
focus of death threats from the neighboring Zapatistas, who have told the
Americans that the ranch rightfully belongs to them. Tim Weiner (NYT)
In the Reuters AlertNet, a report (now 2 days old) on Glen and Ellen packing up and leaving Rancho Esmeralda.
Reuters AlertNet - U.S. couple packing up at blockaded Mexico ranch
In the San Francisco Chronicle:
Mexican state bridles, after U.S. urges caution for visitors to Chiapas
Ellen sent another update to the Rancho Esmeralda crisis. Things are terrible there at the moment - they are moving out. The update begins on this page and continues below. (click MORE)
2 February 2003
Rancho Esmeralda
Ocosingo, Chiapas
Tel 91967 08960
91967 08922
91967 06588
As a result of the violent attacks on Rancho Esmeralda owners and staff on Wednesday and Thursday the ranch has been closed to tourism. In spite of filing charges on Thursday regarding both the kidnapping and beating of staff member Ernesto Cruz and the continuing threat of invasion and violence by the Zapatistas of Nuevo Jerusalen no police protection, much less intervention, has been authorized by Chiapas state government officials.
Even though the American Embassy has been pressing the Mexican government for action, the only step that has been taken was to send local delegates of the
Gobernacion Secretariat, Jaime Ramirez and German de la Rosa, to the ranch on Friday to assist the owners and staff in walking off the ranch, leaving behind all of their belongings. Embassy officials were firm in communicating the message they had received from Gobernacion, in the person of Gabriel Gutierrez, Subsecretario, that this delegation would be the last and only assistance they would be providing.
Following the visit of the Gobernacion delegacion on Friday, ranch owners and staff began packing up valuables and preparing for the possibility of being forced to make an emergency exit.
On Saturday morning a large numbers of friends from Ocosingo
began arriving to help pack up and remove things from the ranch, parking their
trucks at the entrance to the ruins of Tonina. All day Saturday chairs, tables,
beds, kitchen equipment, saddles, tools, ornamental plants, etc. were carried across
the walking trail to be loaded onto the trucks waiting at the other end. At the end
of the day a successful effort was made to get the three trapped vehicles off the
ranch by driving them through several roadless ranch pastures over to the ruins
entrance. Retracing the route used to remove the ranch's vehicles, friends with a 3
ton truck were able to reach the ranch as well and begin to speed up the process of
removing things from the property by directly loading them onto the truck. The
owners and staff continued to remain on the ranch on Friday and Saturday nights
without incident.
This morning (Sunday) the 3 ton truck arrived early and was able to make one more
successful trip before finding that even that access had been closed due to direct
threats to neighboring property owners from the Zapatistas. So what remaining
belongings that can be removed will all, again, have to be carried off on foot.
Additional neighboring ranchers have also been visited by members of this Zapatista
group warning them of consequences if they help Rancho Esmeralda in any way.
At this point there is an urgent concern for the personal safety of those who remain
at the ranch. When the Zapatistas released Ernesto Cruz on Thursday night they sent
him back with a note warning Rancho Esmeralda owners that they are not playing
around, that they want them to leave, and that the next time (referring to the
kidnapping and beating of Ernesto) things will be worse. (A copy of this written
message can be sent by fax if requested.)
When Rancho Esmeralda was first threatened with invasion, on December 31st 2002,
while the state government was unwilling to deploy police to provide protection
they, at that time, assured both the American Embassy and the owners of Rancho
Esmeralda that should something happen they would intervene. Now, barely a month
later, it has been made clear to both the Embassy and the ranch owners that no
matter what transpires there will be no police response of any sort.
In response to the American Embassy's issuing a new travel advisory for Chiapas this
week the head of the Gobernacion Secretariat, Emilio Zebadua, responded to the press
that this advisory was brought on only as a result of what he called "a conflict"
between Rancho Esmeralda owner, Glen Wersch, and the neighboring community of Nuevo
Jerusalen. He refers to the Zapatistas blocking their road access and then calling
ranch owners to a meeting to inform them that their ranch is to be invaded as
"differences that have developed between the ranch owner and community residents".
His statements do not reflect either the widespread hostile reaction in November to
the Isuzu Challenge tour of Chiapas or the detention of a team of 12 Canadian and
French kayakers in January who were agressively pulled from the Jatate River near
San Miguel, detained overnight in the village schoolhouse, fined $200 U.S. and sent
back the next morning. Neither do his statements take into account that similar
violence and intimidation have been and are taking place against other Mexican land
owners in the valley and throughout the region.
In spite of repeated attempts too communicate with Governor Pablo Salazar
Mendiguchia his office has never responded directly to the owners of Rancho
Esmeralda. Just this week the Governor has been in Europe at the Economic Forum in
Davos, Switzerland promoting Chiapas as an appropriate opportunity for foreign
investment.
Owners and staff of Rancho Esmeralda are facing another night of fear and continue
to work to remove what contents of the ranch they can.
My apologies to Glen and Ellen - I've been in transit and out of touch. I'm just now catching up on email. The situation sounds horrible. I'll post this and keep reading my mail. I'm in Palenque now and will got to Ocosingo this week to see where thingfs stand.
Press Release
29 January 2003
Using pedestrian trail access Rancho Esmeralda has continued to function for almost
50 days since the Zapatistas of the community Nuevo Jerusalen began blocking the
ranch's access road and denying entry to tourists. Last night members of the
community attacked owner, Glen Wersch, on his return trip from town to drop off the
evening staff. They pelleted his vehicle with rocks, breaking window glass, and
tried to stop his vehicle although they failed to do this. The Zapatistas have now
put a lock on the illegal gate across the road and are denying access to everyone,
including the ranch owners and staff. Today the Zapatistas took one of Rancho
Esmeralda's staff members, Ernesto Cruz, hostage for over six hours. When they
released him he had been beaten. He has been attended to at the ranch by members of
the Cruz Roja. The Zapatistas have sent messages to the ranch owners demanding that
they leave, taking nothing with them. If they attempt to leave in their vehicles
the Zapatistas have said that they will burn them. They have threatened to hang the
ranch foreman, Valentin Perez, if they get ahold of him. The Zapatistas of Nuevo
Jerusalen have demanded a statement of capitulation from the owners by 1PM tomorrow.
The ranch owners have been in contact again with local and state officials. Owner
Ellen Jones lodged a "denuncia" this evening with the Ministerio Publico. However,
state officials will not issue an order so that the police can enter Rancho
Esmeralda and provide protection.
Ellen from Rancho Esmeralda has written with an update of the takeover attempt by their neighbors. Things are getting worse:
On Friday we made yet another attempt to meet with the members of the community who are blocking our road access and threatening to take our ranch away from us. They refused to set up any meeting with us. They told us there is nothing to negotiate. They declared that they are already the new owners of our ranch. They said they are just waiting for us to give up and leave and told us that they are looking for ways to shut us down completely, including guests walking in on the trail from the ruins. They advised our employees to begin looking for other work. They objected to our stationing a staff member at the road entrance with a cell phone to meet incoming guests and direct them through the ruins. If we continue to post someone there they told us they would take the cell phone from him. I'm enclosing the meeting summary, in Spanish, which our staff wrote and which we sent to the Governor's office and the state Gobernacion and Turismo Secretariats. We have directly asked for their immediate intervention as the situation is becoming more difficult and any hope of dialog appears futile. We're hoping this week will see some progress.
Ellen
The Spanish notes are below (click MORE)
OCOSINGO CHIAPAS
24-01-2003
RESUMEN DE MENSAJES REALIZADOS
POR PERSONAS Y AUTORIDADES DEL NUEVO
POBLADO JERUSALÉN, MUNICIPIO AUTONOMO
PRIMERO DE ENERO.
La comunidad antes mencionado, expreso sus mensajes en una platican con el encargado del centro turístico Rancho Esmeralda, Valentín Pérez y otro empleado de nombre Vicente Sánchez, dirigiéndose sobre el legitimo propietario, el señor Glen Wersh Piltz, esta comunidad dijo estar en espera sobre cuando los propietarios tomen la decisión de abandonar su propiedad, dicen ya ser propietarios de esta pequeña extensión territorial, mencionaron también de que el acceso estará cerrado en forma definitiva y rechazan cualquier tipo de negociación, agrego el mensaje dirigido a los empleados de que vayan buscando otro empleo, cabe mencionar de que ellos están en busca de formas para tener el centro totalmente cerrado, sin ninguna entrada de visitantes, se referían a las personas que entran por la zona arqueológica de tonina y llegan al Rancho Esmeralda, por ultimo dijeron despojar el celular portátil de las manos de cualquiera de los empleados de este centro turístico, que cuando empezó este problema, siempre hay un empleado esperando y dando información sobre lo que sucede con los turistas que buscan hospedarse a dicho lugar, declara, la autoridad del poblado Nuevo Jerusalén, de nombre Armando Vásquez Bolom.
Centro turístico Rancho Esmeralda
Carretera Sn. Juanito s/n
Ocosingo Chiapas.
The Rancho Esmeralda situation is still in stalemate. Guests still hike in from Tonina. And the new road idea may not work, as Ellen and Glen point out in this letter:
We haven't written anything for over a week. We've been waiting to have some news to share. But there hasn't been any change. Our road access is still blocked by the Zapatistas. What guests we are getting are walking in on the trail from the Tonina ruins. The idea of an alternative road died as a result of the Zapatista's intimidation of the small property owners involved.
After a number of phone calls on our part last week, the state government
representative here in Ocosingo went to the capital, Tuxtla Gutierrez, for a meeting with the sub-secretary of his department on Friday afternoon. Afterwards the local rep told us that he is going to La Garrucha on Tuesday to talk to the Zapatistas there about the problem. That was already done by two members of our staff back in December and they were told then that the La Garrucha group has no influence with the group that is blockading our road.
Bottom line: we are getting nowhere and finding no one who will intervene actively in this situation. We have some new contacts and new avenues that we intend to explore this week, looking to the federal level and to the human rights commissions for assistance. We can only hope we find some help there. It is very discouraging for all of us. Let's hope there is some news this coming week. When there is anything we will be sure to let you know. Thanks for all your help and support.
Glen and Ellen
Rancho Esmeralda
Meanwhile, Subcomandante Marcos responded to harsh criticism from the Basque rebel group ETA (this from Mexico Solidarity Network):
The Marcos letter clearly distinguished the Zapatistas from movements
that use terrorism, from vanguardist movements, and from traditional political parties. Marcos lays out the Zapatista code of honor, including respect for life, prohibition against the use of criminal methods to obtain resources, and a commitment to dialogue over the use of force.
So are Glen and Ellen's neighbors Zapatistas or just people using criminal methods to obtain resources?
Ellen has sent a copy of the flyer they are posting around San Cristobal, telling folks how to get to the ranch now that the road is blocked. You can see the instructions by clicking MORE. And a reminder: all the Rancho Esmeralda posts can be found in the "Path" archive on this site. Look at the right column, scroll down, and click on"*Path" or choose an individual entry within the category.
HOW TO VISIT RANCHO ESMERALDA
OCOSINGO, CHIAPAS
Email: info@ranchoesmeralda.net fax: 91967 30711 website: www.ranchoesmeralda.net
As you may already know, road access to Rancho Esmeralda, one of the Lonely Planet’s top ten places to stay in Mexico, has been blocked by the indigenous community at the road entrance. But we are still open! You can come to stay at our beautiful guest ranch by walking in from the entrance to the ruins of Tonina. You must arrive at the ruins BEFORE 5PM, their closing time. The walk is about 1500 meters and relatively level. If you need help with your luggage we have an employee stationed at the entrance to our road from noon to 4:30PM who can call the ranch for a truck to transfer your bags. If you have a car, you should park it at a car park in Ocosingo. You can arrive unannounced but it’s still best to make a reservation by email or fax. It is completely safe to visit the ranch by this route, our view is still magnificent, our food is excellent, our horseback riding is fabulous and the valley of Ocosingo is still one of the most beautiful places to visit in all of Mexico. We hope you will visit us!
COMO VISITAR RANCHO ESMERALDA
OCOSINGO, CHIAPAS
Como esta conocido por muchos, el acceso por carretera al Rancho Esmeralda esta bloqueado por la comunidad indígena ubicada en la entrada. Pero estamos abiertos! Uds. pueden venir a quedarse en nuestro hermoso centro turístico llegando a pie por medio del sendero que empieza en las ruinas de Tonina. Deben de llegar a la entrada de las ruinas ANTES de a las 5 PM, la hora que se cierran las ruinas. La caminata es de 1500 metros y más o menos nivel. Si necesitan ayuda con sus maletas tenemos un empleado puesto en la entrada de nuestra carretera (bloqueada) desde a las 12 PM hasta a las 4:30 PM diario. Esta persona puede llamar al rancho para hacer la transferencia de las maletas por camioneta. Si tienen Uds. un carro, deben de estacionarlo en Ocosingo en un parque de estacionamiento. Pueden llegar sin reservación pero siempre es mejor dejarnos saber que van a venir por medio del email o por fax. Es totalmente seguro llegar al rancho por esta manera, nuestra vista siempre es magnifica, nuestra comida excelente, los recorridos por caballo fabulosos y el Valle de Ocosingo todavía es uno de los lugares más bonitos para visitar de todo México. Esperamos que nos visiten!
The folks at Rancho Esmeralda are still in a tenuous position. They are trying to work out an alternate route to the Ranch. Ellen's letter today says that their neighbors are also being threatened with invasion if they help with the new road. And in La Jornada, journalist and Zapatista supporter Hermann Bellinghausen floats the theory that the Rancho Esmeralda situation is being inflated as part of the counterinsurgency against the Zapatistas - that the folks next door (on land that they invaded some years ago) have only blocked the gate that goes through "their" property. Guess he didn't hear about the demands that Glen and Ellen leave all their property behind so the invaders could continue to run it themselves.
Ellen's letter is below on this page. The article from La Jornada can be read by clicking MORE. And there is an interesting discussion developing in the comments to a previous post: The Daily Glyph: Comment on Still tense at Rancho Esmeralda
Here's Ellen's letter:
Since meeting with state government officials on Monday, and again on
Wednesday, Glen has been working with a state survey crew to map out a new
entrance road into our area. It has developed that a previous request for a
road was submitted in October by the property owners in that area and that
prior request has served as support for the project.
However, since the road idea surfaced several of these property owners have
been threatened by the Zapatistas with invasion of their land if they give
permission for the road to cross their properties. Because this new access
would be of tremendous benefit to everyone, the property owners are
struggling to find a way to participate and their prior request helps to
support their approval of the project.
It is unclear if this road project will be possible but we are doing
everything we can to make it a reality. Meanwhile, our present road access
is closed and we are continuing to receive guests who walk in on the trail
from the ruins.
Involucran cada vez más a bases zapatistas en conflictos intercomunitarios
Crecen "focos de irritación" en Chiapas
HERMANN BELLINGHAUSEN ENVIADO
San Cristobal de Las Casas, Chis., 9 de enero. En un panorama en que no se
resuelven las demandas que planteó hace nueve años la rebelión indígena, la
actual etapa de la estrategia contrainsurgente en Chiapas consiste en
crear "focos de irritación" en torno de las comunidades en resistencia,
buscando culpar a los indígenas miembros de los municipios autónomos de
conflictos e incidentes provocados o bien ficticios.
En el primer caso está lo que ocurre en los poblados Agua Azul y Flor de Café,
municipio autónomo La Paz. En el segundo, la supuesta "invasión inminente" del
rancho turístico La Esmeralda, propiedad de dos ciudadanos estadunidenses en
las afueras de Ocosingo, a escasa distancia de la base militar de Toniná, y de
la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalén, perteneciente al municipio autónomo Primero de
Enero.
El 30 de diciembre pasado, a pocas horas de la gran manifestación zapatista en
San Cristóbal de las Casas, Glenn Wersh Piltz y Ellen Jones Yeazel, dueños del
Emerlad Ranch (como se anuncia en los distintos accesos a la ciudad de
Ocosingo), denunciaron que los zapatistas invadirían su rancho el primero de
enero.
Aunque los pobladores de Nueva Jerusalén lo negaron repetidamente antes de Año
Nuevo, la prensa local no sólo difundió la presunta amenaza, sino que durante
los primeros días de enero reportó como consumada la invasión. El asunto había
llegado ya a las páginas de The New York Times e hizo que la embajada de
Estados Unidos enviara un representante al rancho turístico.
Después de manifestar su inconformidad durante varios meses, los pobladores de
Nueva Jerusalén decidieron a principios de diciembre impedir el paso por sus
tierras a turistas que pretendían ingresar a la propiedad del matrimonio Wersh-
Jones. Eso dio pie a la versión de que era inminente la "invasión". En el
paquete publicitario gubernamental previo al noveno aniversario del
levantamiento zapatista, que "justificó" movimientos castrenses en la zona, se
incluía la "invasión" del Emerald Ranch entre los motivos de alerta del
Ejército.
El presidente municipal de Ocosingo, Omar Burguete Domínguez, siempre hostil a
las comunidades en resistencia, vinculado con los propietarios estadunidenses y
con los ganaderos de la región, propuso ayer una "nueva brecha" a través de
otros ranchos particulares, para eludir el poblado zapatista.
Por otra parte, el pasado lunes 6 el presidente municipal de Tumbalá, Pedro
Méndez Arcos, "denunció" una presunta invasión de tierras por parte de bases de
apoyo del EZLN, que se habrían "apoderado" de un predio en la comunidad Agua
Azul. El edil afirmó asimismo que 15 familias habrían sido "expulsadas".
Respecto a Flor de Café, dijo que "ya se gestionan recursos a través de las
instancias agrarias para adquirir los predios y acabar con los conflictos de
invasión en la zona".
Como ha ocurrido en otras localidades autónomas, las autoridades lograron
enfrentar a los pobladores de distintas organizaciones mediante la promesa de
titulación de predios en las tierras recuperadas a raíz del alzamiento de 1994.
La organización Kichañob, de filiación perredista, ha pretendido desalojar a
los zapatistas de Flor de Café desde hace año y medio.
A finales de 2001, los representantes de la comunidad Flor de Café habían
denunciado amenazas constantes ("incluso de muerte") por parte de dirigentes de
la organización Kichañ Kichañob. Posteriormente se realizó un "censo de
solicitantes", en el cual desconocieron a los autónomos. Desde entonces, las
bases de apoyo sostienen: "No vamos a permitir que organización o autoridad
alguna viole nuestro derecho de posesión, ya que nos pertenece la tierra".
Actualmente, todo indica que el conflicto de Flor de Café podría resolverse
pacíficamente.
Con anterioridad, las bases de apoyo zapatistas habían aclarado que no
aceptarían la "reubicación" que pretendía Kichañob: "Fuimos los primeros en
llegar a trabajar estas tierras y aquí vamos a seguir trabajando y viviendo con
nuestras familias, a pesar de las amenazas con las que intentan provocarnos;
nosotros en ningún momento hemos respondido ni vamos a caer en sus trampas,
porque no queremos problemas, queremos trabajar y vivir en paz".
Ellen sent a second update today.
This morning Glen was invited to a meeting at the Presidencia of Ocosingo (the
county seat). At that meeting local and state officials proposed building a new
access road to the ranch which would bypass the community of Nuevo Jerusalen. This proposed road would cross through four adjoining ranches, beginning at the entrance to the ruins of Tonina, to reach Rancho Esmeralda. The distance of the road would be approximately 2 kilometers and would cross two creeks. Glen has been directed to seek permission from the affected property owners, which he will do this afternoon and tomorrow.
Another meeting has been scheduled for Wednesday at the Presidencia to formalize this possibility. Present at the meeting today were the President of Ocosingo, Omar Burguette, the state government representative in Ocosingo, German de la Rosa, and two of his staff, and an engineer from the Chiapas State Road Comission, Gustavo de la Rosa. The representative of the Chiapas Road Comission indicated that work on this road could begin within two days of a formal decision and construction is estimated to take at least 45 days. The office of Gobernacion, the representative of the state government in Ocosingo, agreed to seek permission from the Zapatistas for open access on the existing road until a new road is completed, although there is not much optimism that this will happen.
Meanwhile, Rancho Esmeralda is open to guests by means of the walking trail that begins at the Tonina ruins. It's a relatively level hike of about a mile that takes about 20 minutes.
That's our latest. We will continue to keep you updated. Thanks for all your help.
Ellen Jones
Rancho Esmeralda
After surviving the threat of takeover just before New Year's, Glen and Ellen remain in a tense situation with their Zapatista neighbors. Here's today's update from Ellen:
Our current situation: after almost four days of having our road open to anyone
(thanks to the press presence) the community again closed the road to everyone on Friday afternoon. Glen is being asked to meet, alone, with the Zapatista leaders from this new autonomous municipio..........to dialog and negotiate. Members of the community next to us have told us that these leaders plan to impose a "war tax" for each of the eight years we have been here.
As I wrote you earlier, state goverment officals have promised to make this a
priority this week. Emilio Zebadua's office, the Secretario de Gobernacion de
Chiapas, is the lead office on this.
Meanwhile, we are open and welcoming guests who must walk in on the trail from the ruins of Tonina to reach the ranch. It's about a 20 minute walk. People with cars must park them in town and take public transportation to the ruins entrance. We were parking guests' cars on a neighboring ranch but the Zapatistas told him he wasn't allowed to help us anymore.
Ellen
More on Rancho Esmeralda aftermath, from Glen and Ellen:
Yesterday Glen was called personally by Luis Pedrero, the State Secretary of Tourism. He called to say that he was working on our situation, that he had talked personally with the governor, Pablo Salazar, about the situation. And that they would make finding a solution to our problem a priority early next week when the holiday period ends. This is the first time we have been contacted directly by an upper level state government official and it is the direct result of the very supportive and effective effort that has been made by the U.S. Embassy in Mexico. Todd Haskell, Consul, was sent to Chiapas last Monday. He visited the ranch and then returned to the state capital where he met with state officials to press our case.
On the down side, two of our staff met with the Zapatista leader of our neighboring community yesterday. He indicated that the lack of a blockage on the road was simply the result of the Zapatista members of the community having gone to San Cristobal to participate in the demonstration there on January 1st. He indicated that the community would be meeting soon and that they would be returning to their previous position of blockading all tourism entering on the road. He reiterated the threat of invasion, when least expected. And he threatened the personal safety of our ranch manager, Valentin Perez.
So we are very anxious to see how this will play out in the next few days. We are still very much on a 24-hour a day watch which is wearing and exhausting. We can only hope that some reasonable solution can be found to end this conflict in the coming days.
If you know anyone in government or the press that you could call and express concern and ask for help, please call them. Thanks again for everything.
Ellen and Glen
An update from Rancho Esmeralda:
Dear Friends:
Just a note to let you know that all is calm at the ranch. We spent the second night, last night, taking shifts and keeping watch. Yesterday all of the Zapatistas went to San Cristobal to participate in a big demonstration celebrating the uprising. For two days now no one is staffing their illegal gate on our road and anyone has been able to come in or go out. But today they will all return and we'll see what happens. The next three or four days will be critical. We are hoping to work with the state government to see the gate removed. That's the latest from this end.
Glen and Ellen
Just got word from Glenn and Ellen that the threatened invasion of Rancho Esmeralda did not happen, and the blockaded road to the ranch is now open to all. Efforts by the American Embassy and heavy media attention seem to have been the deciding factors. This morning a couple from Australia arrived by taxi and rented a cabin. So it looks like things are getting back to normal.
Tim Weiner has the story in the Times today, with other news of rumblings in Chiapas. Janet Schwartz stayed with Glenn and Ellen yesterday after everyone else had been evacuated. The situation is still unresolved.
Mexican Officials Report Threats by Zapatista Rebels
Our friends Glenn and Ellen are facing the repercussions from the imminent changes in NAFTA agricultural regulations. The Zapatistas are threatening to invade and take over certain ranches in protest over the lifting of duties on American agricultural products on Jan. 1.
Rancho Esmeralda, one of the best places to stay in Chiapas, is Glenn and Ellen's jewel in the Ocosingo Valley, a 15-minute walk from the ruins of Tonina. It is one of the places facing invasion. They have operated peacefully for years right next to a Zapatista squatters community AND a large army base. They are not a political or economic threat to anyone.
Can anyone help or get the story out to more media?
The full text of Ellen's press release, in English and Spanish, is below (click MORE)
Janet Schwartz's story in Novedades can be found here:
HABITANTES DE OCOSINGO DICEN QUE PLANEA OCUPAR PREDIOS
UPDATE: The San Francisco Chronicle has picked up the story from AP:
U.S. couple says Zapatista supporters planning land invasion, rebel sympathizers deny plan
And the CBS affiliate in Boise, Idaho (where Glenn and Ellen are from) has put an interview with them online:
KBCI 2 Boise, Idaho - Boise Couple In Standoff With Mexican Rebels
Rancho Esmeralda
Ocosingo, Chiapas, México
30 December2002
Glen Wersch and Ellen Jones
www.ranchoesmeralda.net
email: info@ranchoesmeralda.net
Cell Phone: (52) 91967 08960
SUBJECT: ZAPATISTAS BLOCKADE AMERICAN-OWNED GUEST RANCH IN CHIAPAS – NEW YEAR’S INVASION THREATENED
Zapatista members of an indigenous community outside of Ocosingo, Chiapas began blocking the entry road to a small, American-owned guest ranch on December 7th and are threatening invasion. Ranch owners and staff were called to a meeting by this community, Nuevo Jerusalen, on December 13th at which they were told that Rancho Esmeralda now falls under the authority of the Zapatistas. These Zapatistas also declared that tourism would no longer be allowed in the area and they demanded Rancho Esmeralda hand over the title to the property.
For twenty-three days Rancho Esmeralda has remained open to guests who have accessed the tourist facility by a walking trail that begins at the Tonina ruins. However, the leader of this Zapatista group, Armando Vasquez Bolom, has indicated to Rancho Esmeralda employees who met with him last week that the group, along with members of two other indigenous communities, plans to invade and take over the ranch in the next few days. As a result beginning Monday, December 30th, Rancho Esmeralda will be closed to guests until this problem is resolved. Sr. Vasquez also told Rancho Esmeralda staff that the community wants this tourist facility to run for itself and that the owners will not be allowed to remove any of their belongings because they want the tourist operation intact.
Rancho Esmeralda has been working with state and local officials since this blockade began but authorities are reluctant to enforce the law when it involves Zapatistas. As one state official told the owners when a gate was illegally installed on their road in June 2000, “They’re Zaptistas, they’re untouchable”.
Rancho Esmeralda is a small-scale, low-impact guest ranch which was started by former Peace Corps volunteers, Glen Wersch and Ellen Jones, from Boise, Idaho. They began working on the project in the fall of 1993, shortly before the Zapatista uprising on January 1, 1994. Their original idea was to develop a macadamia nut tree plantation as a long-term investment. But, after a brief invasion of the ranch the first time the owners left for a family visit to the states, Wersch and Jones realized they would have to become year-round residents to avoid losing their investment and the idea of tourist cabins was begun. Opening to guests in 1996, with two cabins, the couple has grown their business into a well-known tourist stop along the “Ruta Maya”; it is listed as one of the ten top places to stay in Mexico in the current issue of the Lonely Planet guidebook.
RANCHO ESMERALDA
Ocosingo, Chiapas, Mexico
29 December 2002
Glen Wersch y Ellen Jones
www.ranchoesmeralda.net
email: info@ranchoesmerald.net
Telefono Celular: 91967 08960
ASUNTO: CENTRO TURÍSTICO, RANCHO ESMERALDA, INVADIDO Y EMBARGADO POR ZAPATISTAS EN LOS PRÓXIMOS DIAS
Rancho Esmeralda, un centro turístico y huerta de nueces de macadamia (10 hectáreas) ubicado cerca de las ruinas de Tonina en el valle de Ocosingo, Chiapas, se embarga por Zapatistas perteneciente al nuevo Municipio Autónomo Primero de Enero y se amenaza por invasión en los próximos días. El rancho estará cerrado a huéspedes a partir del lunes, 30 de Diciembre.
Miembros de la comunidad, Nuevo Jerusalén, empezaron de bloquear acceso para todo turismo el 7 de Diciembre, 2002. El 13 de Diciembre, Rancho Esmeralda se cito a una reunión en la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalén, que esta colindada al rancho y se ubica en los dos lados de la Carretera San Juanito, la entrada al Rancho Esmeralda. En esta reunión unos 20 individuos, representados como autoridades de la comunidad, avisaron a Rancho Esmeralda que la comunidad Nuevo Jerusalén y Rancho Esmeralda ya pertenecen al Municipio Autónomo y que ambos ya caen bajo de su autoridad. Se informo que el turismo será prohibido por el Municipio Autonomo Primero de Enero y que la Carretera San Juanito ahora esta cerrado al turismo. Exigieron también la escritura del Rancho Esmeralda. Desde este entonces Rancho Esmeralda ha trabajado con las autoridades, local y estatal, para buscar una solución.
El Municipio Autónomo Primero de Enero incluye tres comunidades: Nuevo Jerusalén, Patria Nueva y Moisés Gandhi. El 23 de Diciembre Rancho Esmeralda tuvo una reunión con el líder de Nuevo Jerusalén quien indico que las tres comunidades ya se reunieron y decidieron que quieren Rancho Esmeralda para su propia empresa turística. El líder, Armando Vásquez Bolom, también indico que la toma del rancho esta programada por los próximos días y que Rancho Esmeralda no se puede sacar ningunas de sus pertenencias afuera del rancho. Todas las indicaciones ahora son de que la invasión esta planeado por el 31 de Diciembre cuando marchas en Ocosingo y San Cristóbal de Las Casas van a tomar lugar, distrayendo la prensa y los elementos de seguridad publica.
Rancho Esmeralda se ubica a 8 kilómetros al este de Ocosingo, Chiapas cerca de las ruinas de Tonina. La Carretera San Juanito, el acceso al Rancho Esmeralda, se ubica frente a la base militar mayor del 39th Batallón.
3 am, sleepless, thinking of everything I have to do here in New York, but scheming to get back to Mexico. Someone reminded me today of the new ferry service to the Yucatan from Tampa, Florida. I have to drive down this time, so it's worth considering. Seems cheap enough: $65 one-way, plus $149 for the vehicle, plus $22 for the Mexican vehicle fee. Plus meals 62.50, port and security fees 33.50, US departure tax 3.00, Mexican immigration fee 20.00... well, I guess you do pay for the convenience. $355 one-way.
UPDATE: The ferry is not running anymore. Check the site below to see when it will resume. Please don't email me. That's all I know.
And here's the Mexican site which assigns you a reference number that you use to expedite taking your car into Mexico:
Just finished the whirlwind press visit to Miramar, blue eye of water in the middle of the Lacandon selva. The communities nearby continue to run tourist trips in to the lake, but it`s a bit more complicated than when Fernando Ochoa was coordinating things. Still, all seven in the party had a great visit, most of us acheiving a level of relaxation that eludes us in our working lives (I had a head start on our visitors in that regard, but setting up the trip was a challenge). At the same time, the journalists seemed to be getting their stories, talking to the folks in Zapata about farming and pressures on the biosphere reserve.
Now I`m back in San Cristobal de Las Casas, after a stay with our friends Glenn and Ellen at Rancho Esmeralda, in Ocosingo. Chris and I have a lot to do now on the dam issue in the next week or so. We won`t be straying too far from the cybercafes, either here or in Palenque.
In Flores now. I just got back from a ride across the lake and back in a lancha. Unlike the muddy brown rainy-season Usumacinta, Lake Peten Itza was deep green on the way over, silver on the way back as the wind came up. It reminded me of the last time I had seen the family in San Jose.
On my last day here in February, I took a boat across, carrying a cake for a going-away party. On the way there, a strong wind came up, rocking the boat from side to side and slowing our headway to nearly nothing. The lanchero yelled that he was going for shore, and aimed for spot between the two villages. It was several miles from my destination, but after juggling the cake and finding no life vests, I was happy to get out. I carried the cake up the steep slope to the road high above, flagged down a pickup, and made it to the town before the rain began. Today I delivered photos of that party, all of us at the table (who is that huge, grey-bearded gringo?), and a shot of the grandson Alan with icing all over his face.